APPALACHIAN SUMMER  A Camping Tour of Swimming Holes in the Mid-Atlantic Region Thomas Hillegass What could be better than summer camping and hiking in the Appalachians?  Camping and hiking followed by a brisk plunge in a local swimming hole!  Unlike in the western mountains, where you may be hankering for a warm soak in a hot spring even in mid-summer, in the lower and warmer Appalachians, cool is what you will crave.  This 6-8 day car-camping tour begins in the George Washington National Forest (N. F.) in Virginia, then on to the Monongahela N. F. in West Virginia then back into Virginia to finish in Shenandoah National Park, with swimming and day hiking at many scenic forest locations.  Swimming in natural places is a wonderful experience but caution is required.    Absolutely never dive headfirst into a swimming hole.  Don't swim alone, don't drink alcohol and always wear something on your feet.  To avoid snakes, never put your hands or feet anywhere you can't see.    The tour as described here begins and ends where I-66 meets I-495 (aka "the beltway") west of Washington D.C., but  you might begin anywhere along the route.  Approximate mileage is given for each leg below - the total is about 600 miles.    When the weather is good, spend more than one day at a campground - hike and swim nearby and at night have a campfire.  On a rainy day, visit one of the nearby towns.  Sample the local restaurants and stores. Drop in at the library to check your e-mail and read some local history.  See a movie in the evening before going back to camp.  Don't try to camp and swim at all the places mentioned, pick those that suit your pace and match the weather.      If you are flying into Washington or Baltimore and renting a car, you should reserve a campsite near the city to be sure you have a place for the arrival and/or departure night. A very convenient spot is Bull Run Regional Park) just off I-66 east of Manassas.  Call (703) 631-0550 (verified 4/16/01) well ahead for reservations.  Or, in keeping with the swimming hole theme, go to Lake Fairfax Park (reservations at (703) 471-5415) (verified 4/16/01).  It is a bit further off I-66 but has a spectacular (although man-made) water park with slides, ropes, water cannons and lots of fun.  Get detailed directions to these parks when you call for reservations.  All of the campgrounds mentioned are liable to fill up by Friday afternoon on a summer weekend.  Some of the National Forest campgrounds mentioned below take reservations at (877) 444-6777 (verified 4/16/01) or via their website at www.reserveusa.com (verified 4/16/01).  If you plan to spend a weekend night without reservations, get there early on Friday.  LEG 1 (69 miles) From I-66 at I-495, take: I-66 west 58 miles to exit 6 at Front Royal Rt. 340 south 1 mile to traffic signal at Rt. 55 Rt. 55 west 5 miles Rt. 678 south 5 miles to Elizabeth Furnace After you turn south on Rt. 678, you will enter the cozy, isolated Fort Valley in Massanutten Mountain, a part of the George Washington N. F..  Fort Valley was one of the places George Washington planned to retreat to and hide from the British if he lost the war. Here are some fine camping/swimming places that George may have frequented:   Elizabeth Furnace (camp/swim, no reservations, no hookups)  About 5 miles after you turn south on Rt. 678, you will see the signs for the Elizabeth Furnace campground.   This is a popular camping place, as it is not far from the Washington area and is near the source of many hiking trails which you might wish to try. If Elizabeth Furnace is full, continue down Rt. 678 and camp at the more primitive Little Fort (south on Rt. 678 for 10 miles then west on Rt. 758) or the neat, petite Camp Roosevelt (south on Rt. 678 for 15 miles then east on Rt. 675.) At the rear of the Elizabeth Furnace campground is a short path that leads to a very compact little swimming hole in Passage Creek, but a better swimming place is back up the road a piece at Buzzard Rock. Buzzard Rock (swim)  About 2.5 miles north of Elizabeth Furnace on Rt. 678, there is a paved, striped parking area on the west side of the road.  Park here and walk up the road (north) about 1/4 mile until you get past the bend in the road.   Here, in Passage Creek, you will see a very large, flat rock sloping down to the creek and deep swimming hole and little rapids to play in. There are hidden rocks in this swimming hole, so do not jump or dive. LEG 2 (93 miles) Rt. 678 south 15 miles to Rt. 675. Rt. 675 west 8 miles to I-81 at Edinburg, VA.  I-81 south 20 miles to exit 257 Rt. 259 west 25 miles to Blue Hole Rt. 259 east 25 miles back to I-81 Blue Hole (swim)  This is a bit of a detour but take a picnic and spend the afternoon - you'll find it well worth the trip.  Going south on I-81, before you get to Harrisonburg, get off at exit 257 and take Rt. 259 west.  Stay on Rt. 259 through Broadway.  About 15 miles past Broadway, turn left on Rt. 820 then go just about 2 miles more to the sign for Blue Hole on the left.  Blue Hole is a nice family swimming hole and picnic/potty place with safe jumping off of a rock cliff (never dive!).  Retrace your way back to I-81 south to continue the tour. LEG 3 (45 miles) I-81 south 10 miles to exit 247 at Harrisonburg, VA Rt. 33 west 35 miles to Brandywine, WV Brandywine (camp/swim, no reservations, no hookups)  Rt. 33 jogs around the courthouse in Harrisonburg then gradually climbs into the mountains and enters West Virginia at the summit. After winding down the far side you will see signs for the Brandywine Recreation Area. Here is a very nicely developed campground and swimming lake in a bucolic valley, with a sandy beach and grassy picnic area.    LEG 4 (35 miles) Rt. 33 west 35 miles to Seneca Rocks, WV Follow the signs carefully to stay on Rt. 33 as it turns here and there until you come to Seneca Rocks.  Known best as a premier rock climbing place, the steep, majestic Seneca Rocks also overhang a great swimming hole.    Seneca Rocks (swim) Turn into the Seneca Rocks visitors center, then turn left immediately and go past the picnic area to the northernmost parking lot. The path to the swimming hole begins on the right side of this lot near the information sign.  The swimming place, with a gravel beach on one side and rocky ledges on the other,  is easily accessed via this short path.   There is also a somewhat strenuous hike to a great view from the top of the rocks that begins behind the visitors center. Seneca Shadows (camp, N. F. reservations, electric hookups)  There is no camping right at Seneca Rocks but  just south on Rt. 33 is a large national forest campground, Seneca Shadows.  Here you will be camping with rock climbers just down from the sheer cliffs, wiping the chalk off their fingers while planning their next assault. LEG 5 (35 miles) Rt. 33 west 35 miles to Elkins, WV Stuart (camp/swim, N. F. reservations, electric)  Rt. 33 meanders through the very scenic Monongahela N. F. then, as it approaches the gentrifying town of Elkins and becomes a divided highway, watch for signs to the Stuart Recreation Area.   Stuart is yet another nicely developed national forest campground with a nice family swimming place in the creek at the far end. Forest Road 91 begins near this campground and climbs up the mountain to the ominously-named Bear Heaven Recreation Area where there is more camping and several hiking trails into the in Otter Creek Wilderness.  (Better tie bells on your bootlaces when hiking here!) LEG 6 (110 miles) Rt. 219 south 110 miles to Lewisburg, WV Rt. 219 follows a serenely spectacular river valley along the western edge of the Monongahela N. F.,  from Elkins to Lewisburg.  For a touristy side trip, at 43 miles turn east on Rt. 66 to Cass Scenic Railway State Park, with an authentic steam train that will chug you up to  4,000 feet for a vast view of the region.  For wilderness hiking, go another 15 miles and turn west on Rt. 150, the Highland Scenic Highway, for a loop through the Cranberry Wilderness Area and several hiking opportunities. Blue Bend (camp/swim, N.F. reservations, no hookups)  Continuing south on Rt. 219 to Frankford (8 miles before you get to Lewisburg) turn east on County Rd. 21 and go  8 miles, through Anthony, to the Blue Bend Campground.  Here you camp on the banks of small but picturesque Anthony Creek by a deep (cold) swimming hole and a swinging bridge that leads to easy trails through the forest.  An alternative for camping (no swimming) is Greenbrier State Forest (reservations (304)536-1944, electric hookups) a short distance east just off I-64 at exit 175 .    LEG 7 (96 miles) I-64 east 25 miles to Covington, VA Rt. 220 north 28 miles to Warm Springs, VA Rt. 39 east 43 miles through Goshen Pass to Lexington, VA Rt. 220 winds north through towns named Healing Spring, Hot Springs and Warm Springs.  This was the Mayo Clinic of the 19th century, where throngs came to "take the waters", and to see and be seen.  Today you can still be seen (in your altogether) at the Jefferson Pools, corner of Rt. 220 and Rt. 39 in Warm Springs.  Naturally hot (96-98 degree) water is led into large, rustic indoor pools, one for men, one for women (bathing suits optional.)  The fee is $12.00 for an hour and you must be 18 years old.  No reservations are required and they are open every day from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM.  If you want to splurge, for about $85.00 you can get those tired muscles massaged.  Call ahead (800) 838-1766 for a massage reservation. Blowing Rock (camp, no reservations, no hookups).  If your schedule calls for camping on this part of the trip, go west on Rt. 39 from Warm Springs for 9 miles to  Blowing Rock campground.  Otherwise, continue east on RT. 39, which is a Virginia Scenic Byway, through the town of Goshen into the spectacular Goshen Pass. Goshen Pass (swim) The serene Maury River offers many swimming holes along this section.  As measured from the town of Goshen, you will find good swimming holes at about 7.4 miles, 7.7 miles and, the best, at 9.2 miles.  If you are there on a warm day, you will see parked cars and happy swimmers and tubers at these and other spots along the road. Further on Rt. 39, Lexington is well worth a visit - a country town with classy shops, befitting its position at the heart of a lush, rolling horse farm area.   Lexington is also the home of Virginia Military Institute, famous for fighting in the Civil War and, more recently, for reluctantly admitting female cadets.   LEG 8 (25 miles) I-81 north 18 miles to exit 205 Rt. 606 east through Steele's Tavern St. Mary's Falls (hike/swim)  The 2 mile hike to St. Mary's Falls is rewarded with several swimming places, some along the trail and the best at the foot of the falls.  To get there, continue east on Rt. 606 through Steele's Tavern to the junction with Rt. 11.  Jog left briefly on Rt. 11, then right onto Rt. 56 toward Vesuvius. Go about 1 mile on Rt. 56 then, before Vesuvius, turn north on Rt. 608.  In about 2 miles Rt. 608 makes a right turn under a railroad bridge. Go about .3 miles past this bridge to Forest Rd. 41, called "St. Mary's Road".  Turn east (right) on RT 41 and go past the "Blue Ridge Bear and Coon Club" to the parking area. This is a popular hiking place; there is a nice picnic area near the river by the parking area.  Hike about 2 miles up the well marked (and well used) trail to the falls. LEG 9 (35 miles) Rt. 56 east 5 miles to the Blue Ridge Pkwy. Blue Ridge Pkwy north 30 miles to I-64 No eastern mountain tour would be complete without driving a bit of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  By the early 1900s, these now-lush mountains were logged off and worn out by steep-land farming. The area has been restored to its natural beauty through protection as a National Park, and can be enjoyed from the parkway along the ridge, which was constructed by the CCC during the depression. There are numerous hikes beginning along the road - stop at the visitors center for trail maps.  Sherando Lake is a great spot to camp and swim in this section. Sherando Lake (camp/swim, no reservations,  electric hookups)  Exit the Blue Ridge Pkwy. at about milepost 17 onto Rt. 814 and follow the signs to nearby Sherando Lake campground.  This beautifully developed lake, with swimming, boat rentals, and picnic areas, fills up every summer weekend, so get there before noon Friday to get a site.  LEG 10 (18 miles) I-64 east 18 miles to Charlottesville, VA OK, Charlottesville is neither a camping nor swimming place, but it is a welcome stop in our tour offering cultural and historical relief.   You might even want to stay a night at one of the many local hotels/motels to freshen up after days on the trail.   Home of the University of Virginia, it is a lively college town with a vibrant downtown mall.  Jefferson's home, Monticello, is open for tours  XXX but get there early in the day to avoid long lines. LEG 11 (45 miles) Rt. 29 north 30 miles to Madison Rt. 231 north 5 miles to Banco Rt. 670 west 4 miles to Rt. 600 Rt. 600 north to parking area at end of road Whiteoak Canyon (hike/swim, backcountry camping only- requires permit)  Here the tour enters  Shenandoah National Park from its eastern edge.  The Whiteoak Canyon trail, which goes all the way up the mountain to Skyline Drive at the top, is very popular and there may be a fee to park at the trailhead.  Shortly after you begin walking, just after crossing a footbridge, Cedar Run trail goes off to the left.  Hike just 30 minutes up either Whiteoak trail or Cedar Run trail and you will come to waterfalls with superb swimming holes at the bottom.  LEG 12 (77 miles) Rt. 231 north 15 miles to Rt. 522 Rt. 522 west 1 mile to Sperryville Rt. 211 east 25 miles to Warrenton Rt. 29 east 15 miles to I-66 I-66 east 21 miles to I-495 If you have been able to camp, hike and swim at even half of the lush, green mountain and valley locations described above, you have had a good sampling of the mid-Atlantic outdoors.   After discovering just a few of the many beautiful natural places in this eastern mountain region, you'll want to plan your own adventures and come back often.